What they actually do, which concerns they address and what to look for in a formulation
Peptides have more clinical research behind them than most ingredients on a skincare label. They are also one of the most miscommunicated.
The term is applied broadly, across formulations that vary enormously in quality and efficacy. Concentration, stability and delivery all determine whether a peptide product actually reaches the skin and performs.
Here’s what you need to know and some of our most recommended products.
What peptides actually are
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. In the skin, they function as signalling molecules. When applied topically, specific peptides communicate with skin cells, instructing them to perform particular functions depending on their structure and target.
Some peptides signal collagen synthesis. Others inhibit muscle contraction at a surface level, softening the appearance of expression lines. Others support barrier function, wound healing or skin hydration. The mechanism varies significantly depending on the type of peptide and how it has been formulated.
This is why "contains peptides" on a label is not meaningful information on its own.
Why formulation determines whether they work
Peptides are active ingredients, which means their effectiveness depends on several factors beyond their presence in a formula.
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Concentration. A peptide included at a fraction of a percentage to satisfy a label claim will not produce a meaningful clinical response.
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Stability. Peptides can degrade in certain formulations, particularly those with incompatible pH levels or competing actives.
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Delivery. Peptides need to reach the dermis to influence cellular behaviour, which means the vehicle they are suspended in affects how much actually penetrates.
A well-formulated peptide product will specify which peptides are included, at what concentration, and for what purpose. Vague marketing language around peptides is usually a sign that the formulation does not support the claim being made.
What concerns peptides address
Different peptide types address different concerns. The most clinically relevant categories for cosmetic use are:
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Signal peptides, which stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis and are particularly relevant for skin firmness, fine lines and overall skin density. These are the most extensively studied category and the most commonly used in clinical-grade formulations.
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Carrier peptides, which deliver trace elements like copper to the skin to support wound healing and enzymatic processes. Often included in post-procedure formulations.
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Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, which work at the surface level to reduce the muscle activity that deepens expression lines over time. These are the peptides most commonly marketed as alternatives to injectable treatments, which overstates their effect but reflects the underlying mechanism.
Peptides in the Marini SkinSolutions range at TAE
Several products in the Marini SkinSolutions range available at TAE are formulated around peptide complexes.
The Age Intervention Eye Cream combines peptides with retinol, hyaluronic acid, CoEnzyme Q10 and green tea extract, targeting fine lines and wrinkles in the periorbital area where the skin is thinnest and most susceptible to early ageing.
Marini Juveneck is formulated specifically for the neck and décolletage, an area that ages at the same rate as the face but is rarely given equivalent product attention. Its peptide complex works alongside DMAE, hyaluronic acid and oat and rye extracts to address texture, hydration, discolouration and laxity in the neck. Its efficacy is backed by a study published in the Journal of Drugs and Dermatology, in which 94% of subjects noted improvement in one or more categories.
Marini Bioshield is formulated for post-procedure skin and highly sensitised or compromised barrier conditions. A patented, silicone-based formulation combining targeted growth factors, peptides and anti-inflammatory agents, it provides an occlusive, oil-free barrier that supports skin recovery following chemical peels, laser treatments and other procedures associated with downtime. It is also suitable for inflamed or reactive skin, where barrier protection and calming support are the priority.
Where peptides fit in a routine
Peptides work best with consistency. They are not an immediate-result ingredient. Their mechanism is cellular and cumulative, which means the skin responds over weeks and months rather than after a single application.
They are generally well tolerated across all skin types including sensitive, which makes them a useful addition to routines where stronger actives like vitamin A or AHAs have been limited. They also layer well with most other ingredients, sitting between serum and moisturiser in a routine for optimal absorption.
If you would like to discuss which peptide-based products are appropriate for your skin and concerns, speak with our team at your next visit or book a consultation online.
All treatments require a consultation to assess suitability. Individual responses may vary. This content is for educational purposes only.
